The Julian Alps and the Soca River Valley

Driving northwest out of Bled, you get to the way Northwestern Corner of Slovenia (and thereby the former corner of Yugoslavia), turn south at Kranska Gora to head into the Julian Alps over the Vrsic Pass.  Note, the day was cloudy and overcast until we made the turn.  Perfect clear skies for the rest of the trip, perfect for high mountain views.

But first, a detour to see the Planica Ski Hill, which is the 2nd largest ski hill in the world.  Many, many world record ski jumps have occurred at this location.  Someday, I'm going to learn to ski jump!

The road up to Vrsic Pass from north to south has 50 hairpin turns, 24 up, and 26 down.  The turns are paved with cobblestones for better traction.

The Vrsic Pass is called the "Ruska Ceska" or "Russian Road" as it was built in 1915 by Russian Prisoners of War held by the Austro-Hungarians during WWI.  The A-H's needed this road built to supply their troops on the other side of the pass who were battling the Italians.  More on this to come.  Many Russian workers died in avalanches and so the survivors built this in honor of their brethren.

Although this isn't the actual pass (it's to right of this shot), this is was what the Russians faced.

Picnic time at Vrsic Pass....in the SUN!!

As you descend from the pass, you are heading south into the Trenta Valley.  Here is a view back towards Vrsic Pass.

The valley makes a sharp turn to the west.....(note this being late fall/early winter the sun was low, sometimes not even getting to the valley floor.)

.....and we are at the eastern end of the Soca River Valley.  This valley is historic for being the location of the front (known as the Isonzo Front) in Italian during WWI. 

Between 1915 and 1917, the Italians and the Austro-Hungarians fought 12 battles in this valley and in these mountains.  Why you ask?  Turns out the Italians were miffed that that A-H's were granted Italian speaking areas in an earlier treaty.  After initially declaring neutrality in WWI, the Italians declared war on A-H to get those lands back.....and more.

That IS the color of the Soca River.  It's got a marbley white quality it to it.

A gratuitous picture of me.

Throughout the valley, you see cemeteries and graves of soldiers who died on the Soca front.

This cemetery, back on the other side of the valley, is one of the most poignant war cemeteries I've ever visited.

Moving south down the Soca River, at a critical narrow juncture, stands Fort Kluze.  Those openings are pointed at.....

.....this vista.  Or to shoot at any attackers coming up the valley.

Across from the Fort, are rungs to aid in a quick getaway?

In the town of Kobarid (Slovenian) or Caporetto (Italian) there is a museum which explains the wars of the Isonzo Front.  As you can see, a great deal of fighting was done in the mountains, and in most cases, the A-H were in position and the Italians were attacking hill.  11 Battles of the Isonzo Front...it was a war of attrition.

But it was the 12th Battle of the Isonzo Front, also known as the Battle of Caporetto that changed EVERYTHING.  The A-H's called in the Germans for help.  In a surprise attack, the Germans used poison gas and "blitzkrieg" fighting methods to push the Italians (who still relied on top down command decision making) back 25km in one day.  It was the worst day in Italian Military history.  This here is the very moving Italian memorial to the Battle of Caporetto.  One thing D and I noticed is that the names of the deceased are in alphabetical order.  We joked that it had to be the work of the Slovenians!!!

The Isonzo Front was the site of Hemingway's "A Farewell to Arms", which I read in preparation for this trip.  It's awesome to think that Hemingway drove these same roads and saw these same views...although in much different circumstances.