Friday, September 10, 2010

Viterbo -- Home of the Popes

Back in the 13th century, the Papal States were not only a religious force, but a political force as well. The popes and their dominion had enemies. Sometimes the popes would flee Rome and set up elsewhere. Back in the mid-13th century, Urban IV fled Rome and came to Viterbo, where the popes sometimes summered.





SYA Class of 2010-11 on the steps of Via Saffi on the way to their first Friday field trip.






The papal palace in Viterbo






Urban IV brought the papacy to Viterbo. He was a French pope.






The arches of the loggia connecting two building in the papal palace. They are gothic in style and are the symbol of Viterbo.






In 1268, Urban IV died. The cardinals came here to Viterbo to elect a new pope. However, they had nice accomodations and were being treated to a life of luxury at the expense of the Viterbesi, they went nearly two and a half years without electing a pope. So, in the summer of 1271, the people of Viterbo, locked the cardinals in this room until they elected a pope.






The Viterbesi also removed the roof of the that room to expose the cardinals to the elements to force them into an election.






In November of 1271, three years without a pope, Gregory X was elected. He promptly wrote the beginnings of the rules of the "conclave" which is what essentially is used today to elect a pope, and prevent any delays.






In 1276, Gregory X was succeeded by John XXI, the first and only Portuguese pope. He died six months later.






Late in 1276, Nicholas III was elected.






The last Viterbesi elected pope was Martin IV, who upon becoming pope, moved the papacy back to Rome.


The Viterbesi are hugely proud of this part of their history, even if they reached their historic peak in the 13th century.

Thursday, September 09, 2010

Sardinian Pig





Dinner on 8 settebre 2010. Sardinian Suckling Pig (roasted in Anna's wood burning stove located outside) and pasta as a primo.






The view this morning on my bike ride into work.

Monday, September 06, 2010

Transporto Macchina di Santa Rosa

Watch this! I am watching this from my 3 story window. Apologies for having to turn your head to watch, but it's worth it. This tradition of having 150 men of Viterbo carry a tower in honor of our patron saint, Santa Rosa, has been going on for over 300 years. Every September 3rd, it's crazy, and awesome and I was even more into it than last year.




This second clip is of myself and Eleni at the Trevi fountain in Rome. Note that I am embracing my inter Italian, with the faux aviator sunglasses and the stubble.


Sunday, September 05, 2010

Strada Buon Respiro 14 (Street of Good Air)

Yup, that's the address of my "country home" here in Viterbo. This year, as per my request, I am living with a host family. Anna Fabi is my host mother and after a week, she is cutting me no slack with my Italian. Plus, she cooks and does my laundry. I am totally experiencing life as a coddled Italian Mama's boy. It's pretty nice I must say.





Here is what I come home to each and everyday. My studio apartment is on the ground floor of the Fabi family home. The dog, Ettore, greets me like this every day. In addition, Anna's daughter and her entire family live in the other half of the duplex. Note, the bike parked by the garage door is the one I ride to and back from school.






Anna, without her usual cigarette, welcoming me home as she does most every day.







The studio is kind of soviet in feel at the moment. I have new colorful sheets and carpets care of Eleni, my first visitor of this school year.






Eleni posing in front of the bunk bed. In my first miscommunication with Anna, I asked her to make up the second bed for Eleni, but Anna thought I wanted a bed with two places (as in a Queen bed).






The tub is not a rectangle, but a square. I have not mastered taking a shower yet without spraying water everywhere. I've decided for now, to shower sitting down.






The sink and the heater. Note the yellow basket. It's where I am supposed to keep my shoes. I left my shoes out one day and I found them in the basket when I got hom.






The house is about a 30 minute walk out in the country and this is the view. The hammock is a huge added bonus!






When I walk to school, I still have to dodge plants growing out of the sidewalks in addition to those that are encroaching on it. I plan on doing some community service and trimming these back sometime in the next few weeks.