This put a smile on my face

Emma B, HRS Class of 2004.  This was part of the StoryCorps series on teaching and education.  We're going to go in and tape our story when I'm in San Francisco this summer.  And thanks to you, Emma, for being a great student.

Meeting the Parents

Ok, this set of pictures is just because I was there when Yvonne met Mario's mother for the first time!!

And now Dad is in on the conversation

J was there too, apparently on a second visit J impressively took the Mom's arm and assisted her.

We also got to head out and see the land Mario owns.

The girls got to run around.  Mario grows certain crops here and gets agricultural subsidies.  Also, he wants to buy the land around him, BUT it's owned by a man who has been linked to organized crime and therefore all that landowners assets are tied up in court.  It was just funny how Mario told the story without batting an eye.  Life in Sicily.

Greeks and Romans in Central Sicily

This trip back to Central Sicily was great not only to see Enna and the Good Friday procession, but also to come back and see A) The Greek/Roman/Carthaginian city of Morgantina/Serra Orlando (3rd and 4th Century BC), which, for those of you following the blog was FOG bound the last time I was here with SYA back in 2010 B) to see the repatriated "Venus of Morgantina and C) to see the mosaics of Villa Romana del Casale in the town of Piazza Armerina, which was closed to the public when I last visited.  It felt like I was tying up loose ends to get to visit these sites!!

You see a grid plan, you know it has been under Roman control!

Up here in the "residential" area we are looking down on the agora, or public area.  That excavated square area on the left is the "macellum" which was where there were stores.  The excavated area on the right is the "area sacra."

The lower area in this pictures is the "prytaneion", which if I am reading my Italian correctly is where the officials hosted guests.  The upper area is the "casa del saluto", not a hospital but a public bath.

You can see why they chose this site.....high on a ridge with a beautiful view.

Now, down in the agora area, we are looking up the "Platea A", which was the main paved street leading to the residential areas.

The East Stoa where there were offices for the politicians and a general "city hall"

Most of the archeological finds of the Morgantina site are housed at this small museum in the town of Aidone.

The museum is quite proud of the fact that inside it has the "Venus of Morgantina"

As with every cultural site in Italy, the sponsors are always listed, but here you'll notice that one of them is the Getty Museum in Los Angeles.  Why?

The abbreviated story is that the Getty Museum purchased the Venus through traditional art channels, but because it was originally taken by tomb raiders, it was repatriated back to Italy.  It came to this location because the marble is from a formation of rock that is found in this part of Sicily, but whether or not it came from the Morgantina site cannot be determined for sure.  Regardless, she's here in Aidone, in this small museum in Central Sicily, whereas she once lived the high life in Los Angeles.

The somewhat realistic drapery indicates it probably is late classical...right at its tail end as it begins the morph into the amazing realism that was achieved in the Hellenistic age.

THIS was amazing!!  When the excavators were doing the official excavation, they found this modern Italian 100 Lire coin from 1978, which helps date the time that there was "tomb raiding".

Last stop....Villa Romana del Casale, or more commonly known as Piazza Armerina.

This complex was probably the residence of a series of wealthy 3rd/4th century AD Roman import/exporters.  Central Italy, being right in the middle of the Mediterranean was the crossroads of trade from Africa to Europe.  The owners of this huge villa profited from that trade and over the course of time continually added to the structures, thereby giving it's "organic" layout.

The excavations are ongoing, but everyone comes here to see the mosaics.  I would guess that less than 20% of the mosaics are open to the public.  Here's the triclinium, with its crappy enclosure and roof.

The triclinium was the dining area.  You can see the main part of the eating area with the three "private" areas.

What was entertainment as they ate?  The floors of course!

The most "famous" mosaic at Piazza Armerina is the one of the girls in the bikini's.  The room was probably some kind of changing/locker room  Up in the corner, you'll see a part that was ripped, turns out underneath is another mosaic when the room had a different purpose.

The theory is that the young girls were in a pageant or sporting contest.  The clothed woman on the left was the judge, or their caretaker.

These animals are not found on the European continent, adding to the evidence that there was lots of trade from Africa coming through this area.

Why are the animals in this picture and the one above ALL looking in the same direction?

They are ALL being enchanted by this musician (I forget his name).  These mosaics were from the "music room." Makes sense

In the hallway that leads to the triclinium is the "hallway of the hunt"

More exotic animals!

You'll see the hunters, but looking closely at the robe of the hunter on the left, you'll see a sign that was co-opted in modern times. 

I particularly like this one where a tiger has found a mirror and is fascinated by its reflection!

The Navel of Sicily....Enna

Right in the center of the island of Sicily, sits the town of Enna

The view from the highest point in Enna

Enna's neighbor to the north, Calascibetta originally founded by the Arabs when they were present here in Sicily.  The word "cala" in arabic means "fort" in Arabic.

Why Enna, you ask?  My friend from Viterbo, Mario (Yvonne's bf) grew up here in Enna and invited us down.

You like artichokes?  They grow along side the road in this part of the world.

The big event we were invited down for?  The procession of the town's confraternities.  More about this in a moment.

On the evening before Good Friday, each of the town's church's is open to the public.

They hold ceremonies, such as the reenactment of the last supper

On the afternoon of Good Friday, things are being put into place, such as "Roman Torches"...I remember Roman Candles as a type of firework we used to set off when we were kids.

Then all around town, the confraternities (or MALE members of the many churches around town) get dressed in the gowns (each has a different color)....

and don their cappucinis (hoods...and yes, you're seeing that right)

At 7PM, the first of the 16 confraternities in town begins the 1.5km procession.....to escort Jesus to the cemetery.

This is a religious event....the American group that shall not be named, took this religious gear and turned it political.

The oldest confraternity 1261...the most recent in 2011

Each carries some item...some were obvious as to what they signified, other were not.

As daylight waned, the torches were lit and the whole procession took on an even more somber tone.

I have to admit, that for the first 20 minutes, I simply was unable to look at the hoods and NOT feel the outrage that most American's would because of what it means to us.

Unlike most parades which as joyous and loud, this procession had NO music (except at the beginning and end, and that had no drums).  The procession was done in silence.

Only one confraternity had point hoods.

After seeing the first 8 or so confraternities pass by the near the beginning, we all hopped over to the other side of town, but along the way, we saw these guys setting up a cross of candles.

They also had this great projection of Jesus being carried.

The second to the last confraternity gets to carry Jesus into the cemetery...

...and the last confraternity carries the Madonna.

Mario, Yvonne, Agnieska (Yvonne's friend from Chicago), Jadzia, myself and Nadia (Agnieska's daughter)

Posing with members of the St. Anna confraternity.