After my day in Hong Kong, I flew up to the "small" town of a mere 4 million called Yichang. It's the largest city in the western portion of Hubei province and situated directly downstream from the Sandouping/Three Gorges Hydroelectric Project. However, it is also located right at the end of the eastern most of the famous Three Gorges of the third longest river in the world, the Yangtze. In China it is known as the Chiang Jiang which translates to the "the long river." Fact: One-third of all Chinese live in the Yangtze River basin. The translates to one in every twelve persons in the world that lives in the Yangtze River basin.
I arranged to take the cruise upstream to Chongqing, which was 4 nights and 3 days of cruising. Victoria Cruises is an American owned company catering to English speakers. The boat can carry up to 300+ passengers. Our sailing had a total of 64, so it was quite an intimate sailing. I was a total anomaly being a young, non-married passenger. I don't think they really had any idea what to make of me. My dining partners were couples from Canada, New Zealand and Dallas, TX. You guess as to which set contained the least urbane member.
The cruise used to be all about the scenery of the gorges. However, since the mid-1990's, when the Chinese government elected to build the Sandouping Dam, the dam itself, as well as it's effects, is a major component of the trip. The positive aspects that are touted are the 26 generators that will supply China with a large proportion of it's electricity, flood control and improved navigation for those upstream.
The 1.4 mile long Sandouping/Three Gorges Dam. It is 18 meters wide at the top and 130 meters wide at its base.
On the other side, the locks, which have a set for upstream and downstream travel. The Panama Canal only has one set of locks.
There are a series of 5 consecutive steps in the locks. At the moment, only 4 are in use as the reservoir behind the dam is being filled to its capacity.
Entering lock 1. Eventually four ships would traverse the locks with our ship.
One of the doors of the lock from my cabin window as we moved from one lock to the next.
So I've discussed the benefits of the dam. However, what have been the tradeoffs? We have all heard about the thousands of cultural and historical artifacts that have been submerged. The environmental impact is yet unknown, however it is a certainty that the river morphing into a reservoir will have some impact. However, it is the 1.3 million or so residents of the flooded areas of the 400-mile reservoir created by the damming of the river that seems to me to be the biggest story.
Cities flooded were usually rebuilt above 175 meters above sea level, which will be the reservoir's height upon completion of the dam. Former city dwellers were given subsidized prices to purchase new apartments. Residents who were farmers in the flooded region were also given the subsidized price to purchase places to live in a newly built city adjacent to their land. In speaking with a couple of the guides we had, the consistent story I got was that the younger people who were displaced were certainly affected, but they were quickly adaptable (and perhaps more amenable to) urban life. However, it was the older subsistence farmers who were uprooted from their homes and land who suddenly found themselves in cities with no skills or economic opportunities. These are truly displaced people.
A new city built above 175 meters
A common site along the Yangtze. These structures are built for landslide and erosion control
The Yangtze is the artery for coal mining and transportation
I want to end with the beauty of the Three Gorges. It's impossible to show you the immensity and grandeur of the place. To be on a boat with the walls of the gorge all around you is something one must experience. Pictures don't do it justice. However, I'll post some of the best shots.
Sailing upstream along the "mini three gorges"
As a Geology major, here is a requisite shot of an exposed cross-section seen in the Wu Gorge.
The new city of Fengdu (The city of ghosts) on the far side. The former city, in the foreground, has already reverted to grassland and will soon be flooded.
Paying homage to Buddha
The Qiling Gorge at sunset
I arranged to take the cruise upstream to Chongqing, which was 4 nights and 3 days of cruising. Victoria Cruises is an American owned company catering to English speakers. The boat can carry up to 300+ passengers. Our sailing had a total of 64, so it was quite an intimate sailing. I was a total anomaly being a young, non-married passenger. I don't think they really had any idea what to make of me. My dining partners were couples from Canada, New Zealand and Dallas, TX. You guess as to which set contained the least urbane member.
The cruise used to be all about the scenery of the gorges. However, since the mid-1990's, when the Chinese government elected to build the Sandouping Dam, the dam itself, as well as it's effects, is a major component of the trip. The positive aspects that are touted are the 26 generators that will supply China with a large proportion of it's electricity, flood control and improved navigation for those upstream.
So I've discussed the benefits of the dam. However, what have been the tradeoffs? We have all heard about the thousands of cultural and historical artifacts that have been submerged. The environmental impact is yet unknown, however it is a certainty that the river morphing into a reservoir will have some impact. However, it is the 1.3 million or so residents of the flooded areas of the 400-mile reservoir created by the damming of the river that seems to me to be the biggest story.
Cities flooded were usually rebuilt above 175 meters above sea level, which will be the reservoir's height upon completion of the dam. Former city dwellers were given subsidized prices to purchase new apartments. Residents who were farmers in the flooded region were also given the subsidized price to purchase places to live in a newly built city adjacent to their land. In speaking with a couple of the guides we had, the consistent story I got was that the younger people who were displaced were certainly affected, but they were quickly adaptable (and perhaps more amenable to) urban life. However, it was the older subsistence farmers who were uprooted from their homes and land who suddenly found themselves in cities with no skills or economic opportunities. These are truly displaced people.
I want to end with the beauty of the Three Gorges. It's impossible to show you the immensity and grandeur of the place. To be on a boat with the walls of the gorge all around you is something one must experience. Pictures don't do it justice. However, I'll post some of the best shots.
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