William Jefferson Clinton (#42)

William Jefferson Clinton (1993-2001)

Thursday July 7th, 2005 was dedicated to the Clinton Presidential Library and Museum. We drove into Little Rock and started at the River Market complex which houses food counters and produce stands. The special of the day at one of the BBQ places was the Big Willie Plate.

BBQ Shredded Beef Sandwich with coleslaw, baked beans and peach cobbler with Vanilla ice cream.

The River Market is about a half mile west of the Clinton Museum. Peter and I walked to the Museum.

The Clinton Library as viewed from the western approach.

Looking north across the Arkansas River from the ground floor lobby.

The view looking east from the 3rd (top) floor.

The Museum on the left and Library on the right.

About one-third of the building sits on the riverbank. The remaining two-thirds is suspended over the marshy banks of the Arkansas River and supported by one beam. Truly an architectural and engineering feat. Originally, Clinton wanted the building to be suspended over the river, with the supporting beam coming out of the water. However, the Secret Service determined that it was impossible to ensure preventing a terrorist to float right up under the building and set off and explosion. The metaphor for having the building reach halfway across the river was to represent a "bridge to the 21st century."

For those residents of Little Rock who deride Clinton himself or the building have come to call the museum, "the double wide."

So what about the contents within the museum? I will say that I found the modern presentation (read more video and less reading) kept me much more engaged and for a longer period of time. My favorite activity in the museum was the decision room.

Visitors sitting around the Cabinet Table learning about how some decisions were made in the Clinton White House.

I sat in the chair designate for the Secretary of the Treasury and learned about how Clinton brought about Welfare Reform, the budget showdown and actions taken in Kosovo. I must have spent a solid 45 minutes glued to the console.

The natural flow of movement lead us to the main gallery where each year of Clinton's presidency is summarized and outlined. In addition, there were displays on sixteen different themes, such as environmental conservation. I learned that on February 5th, 1993, within the first couple weeks of his presidency, Clinton signed into law the Family and Medical Leave Act.

The first bill that Clinton signed into law.

Peter, with great patience, reads nearly everything presented.

So I know that many of you are wondering whether or not Monica Lewinsky is mentioned. No, she isn't. However, there is mention of impeachment displayed quite prominantly in the chronology of his tenure as President.

In comparison to the Truman Museum, this one felt much more like propoganda. I went through the museum with this sense that we weren't being provided the entire story. Unlike Truman, who allowed dissenting opinions and generated dialogue, the Clinton Library had a very sanitized feel.

I do, however, have to give great kudos to having the gift shop down by the River Market. Separating the retail portion of the museum from the museum itself reduced the feel of commercialism. At least it did for me.

I enjoyed the Clinton museum and all the musems Peter and I visited. After we left the museum, we got in the car and just drove through the city of Little Rock. At one point, we saw a sign pointing us to Little Rock Central High School.

Front entrance to Little Rock Central High School

Why does this ring a bell? On these steps in the 1950's, the first African-American students walked into a public school and the desegregation of schools commenced.

Peter, being a huge fan of architecture, directed us through the historic Quapaw district which has many beautifully renovated homes.

Dinner was at Doe's Eat Place. It was a regular dining location for Clinton during his years in Little Rock.

Doe's Eat Place on West Markham Street

Peter and I split a two pound piece of Porterhouse steak. It was great. This last night before I flew home, I spent at the Holiday Inn Express out by the Little Rock Airport. Alas, the string of Motel 6 stays was finally broken.

Northwest Arkansas

July 6th, 2005 had Peter and I continuing our wandering at our own leisurely pace. Since neither one of us had ever set foot in the state of Oklahoma and Joplin, MO being a mere ten miles from the Oklahoma border, we headed west on I-44 into Oklahoma to have breakfast. The town in the northeast corner of Oklahoma is called Miami. Miami, OK is the childhood home of the NY Yankee legend, Mickey Mantle. Who knew?

In the short time we spent in Oklahoma, I learned that before it became a state, this land was known as the Indian Territory. Native American tribes that had been displaced or had become disenfranchised were given a chunk of land for their tribes. The Modoc Indians of Northern California were moved to this part of Northeastern Oklahoma back in the late 1800's.

Our route through Southwestern Missouri, follow the purple circles

Just as quickly as we entered Oklahoma, we left. Driving east, we saw that the states of Oklahoma, Arkansas and Missouri all met in one place. Of course, we had to find it. Having just knocked Oklahoma off my list of states never visited, it was time to take Arkansas off as well.

A journey of a thousand miles.....

begins with a first step.

Southwest Missouri is known as the land of caves. In the tiny town of Noel, Peter and I took a tour of the Bluff Dweller's Cave. This was no dinky one room cave. The tour lasted a good hour and we went in all different directions.

Heading south, we entered Arkansas for good and entered the town of Bentonville, AR. Why does that sound familiar?

Look here!

Of course we had to go shop at the Walmart. I purchased a pair of swimming trunks and here's my receipt to prove it.

One for the scrapbook!

We drove around Bentonville and determined that it too was subject to retail stripland along the highway. But we found Bentonville's charming town square, had lunch and took a tour at the Walmart museum housed in Sam Walton's original five and dime store.

Walmart #1, now home to the Walmart Museum

Northwest Arkansas is booming and you could tell by the numerous subdivisions with rows and rows of McMansions. Leaving Bentonville, we commenced on our last leg, Little Rock of bust.

Follow the purple line again.

As you can see we took a route that took us through the Ozark National Forest. According to a book that Peter had, there was a picturesque swimming hole right on our path. Four miles on a dirt road off the small two lane highway and then a .75 mile hike, we got to the swimming hole on the Kings River.

More water needed, but refreshing anyway.

As the sun set, we pulled into Conway, AR and slept at the Motel 6.

Southwest Missouri

You know all those brochures that sit in the lobby of every motel and hotel that advertise great things to do or things to buy in the area you are staying? Well, Peter and I fell victim to one of those and so our first destination on July 5th, was the Airline History Museum located at the downtown Kansas City airport. This airport is used mainly for communter flights and private flights.

The museum, actually a hangar, is run by passionate historians of aviation. Kansas City was the original home of TWA, which stood for Transcontinental and Western Airways. The museum has three rooms of artifacts of long gone era of American Aviation. Here's something that attendents of flights had to be wary of.

Watch out when you go to the bathroom!

The main part of the tour was to see the restored planes the museum has purchased and has volunteers working on restoring. There is a plane who's name I can't remember, a DC3 and the pride of the museum and Constellation, affectionately known as a Connie.

A DC3 being carefully restored to original specifications.

Peter and I enjoying the first class seats of the restored Connie

After the museum, it was time for Peter and I to leave the big city and work our way to Little Rock. We made a conscious decision to stay off the big highways and to let serendipity lead the way.

Follow the purple hatched line, it's the route we took.

By taking the small roads, we saw the beautiful countryside of Southwest Missouri. We stopped by a historical plaque which marked the location where 12,000 men of Missouri camped one winter during the War Between the States. These men entered on the side of the Confederacy. Peter and I were clearly now in the South.

On a cliff above the confluence of the Osage and Sauk rivers.

Our wanderings took us near many lakes and reservoirs. At Stockton State Park, I took a dip. Definately refreshing! The scene of a person taking a swim on a hot summer day in the South was one that I lived.

Sampling the local produce.

Eventually our path lead us onto this famous road.

Historic Route 66

After driving the winding roads of Southwest Missouri, I got onto Route 66, a long straightaway, and found myself going over 75 miles an hour. I got pulled over by Officer Byrnes of the Missouri Highway Patrol. I gave him my California drivers liscense along with the rental car paperwork. He was quizzical and asked Peter and I what the purpose of our trip was. His response, "are you getting paid to do this?" brought howls of laughter to Peter and I. After determining that I had no outstanding warrants for my arrest and had a clean driving record, Officer Byrnes let us go with a warning to "keep the speed down." A hearty shout out to Officer Byrnes!!

As the sun was setting, we rolled into the town of Joplin, MO. The pattern of development of these small cities is to have a charming and architecturallly beautiful downtown that is economically dying. Out near the interstate, all the chain and box stores have drawn residents away from the old town square. We saw this over and over again in most every town we entered.

After hitting up a local for dinner suggestions, Peter and I ended up at Big R's Restaurant.

A local steakhouse in Joplin, MO

I have to say that there was so much hope and potential for Big R's. But the steak I had was mushy and Peter's ribs were nothing compared to Arthur Bryants.

Sleep was found at the Joplin, MO Motel 6.

Harry S Truman (#33)

Harry S Truman (1945-1953)

July 4th, 2005 in Independence, MO. Patriotic and fitting was how Peter and I saw it. We started the day by taking a tour of Truman's lifelong home at 219 North Delaware Street. It's a grand old house with great porches.

The Truman Family Home in Independence, MO

The inside of the house is exactly the same as the day Bess Truman passed away in 1982. Even the calender on the wall is set to 1982. On the coat rack in the hallway is the last coat and hat that Harry wore. It is as he last set it there before he died. One interesting note, it is in Bess' will that the Truman's daughter, Margaret Truman, is allowed to stay at her childhood home at anytime she likes. Because of this, the entire upstairs is off limits to tourists as it is Margaret's home. Margaret, now in her 80's, hasn't stayed at the North Delaware home in a few years.

After the house tour, Peter and I moved on to view the Truman's Museum about a mile north of his home. For the decade after Truman left office, he took a brisk walk to and from his home to his office at the museum complex. He claimed it kept him healthy. His aim was to take 120 steps per minute to keep the heart in shape.

Of the three museum's Peter and I felt that the Truman Museum was the most honest. It certainly celebrated his life and accomplishments, but there was no overstating propaganda. During the opening film, the narrator clearly stated that the decisions and issues that Truman handled some 60 years ago have not yet fully played out and so a decision as to whether he did something well/right/badly/wrong cannot yet be determined. In addition, throughout the museum, viewpoints that stated what Truman did was incorrect were always presented. For example, it was on Truman's watch that the atomic bomb was dropped on Japan. There were clear statements in view by those who felt that Truman's decision to drop the bombs was a mistake. It was refreshing to read criticisms of Truman's years in the White House.

It also became clear to me that during the years Truman was in office, he didn't catch a break. The end of WWII, the Korean War, Joseph McCarthy, emerging Civil rights, the Marshall Plan and Truman Doctrine. One after the other, Truman was bombarded with crises and he simply did his best.

If his persona had to be summed up in one line it would be:


THE BUCK STOPS HERE

That saying was printed on a placard that sat on his desk. I think it is a great motto for our leaders.

I walk with the giants of history!

Oh, an observation. Since we spent a number of hours at the Truman Museum, we left in the middle to go get some lunch. In our pursuit of healthy food options, we noticed that up to this point in the trip, we had yet to see a grocery store. Where do the people of this part of the country shop for groceries? It's unfortunate, that we had to resort to McDonalds for lunch.

After our time at the museum, we went wandering around Kansas City. The city is knows as the "CITY OF FOUNTAINS" and so we went to a part of town that we were told had a number of the most beautiful. Along the way, we drove through downtown, which was eerily quiet. We stopped in and saw the newly renovated Kansas City Union Station. Driving south, we stumbled upon the obviously very yuppie section of Kansas City along 47th Avenue. Case in point? Restoration Hardware. Enough said!

The skyline of Kansas City, MO

On the evening of July 4th, Peter agreed to attend a baseball game at Kauffmann Stadium, home of the Kansas City Royals. On this evening, they were playing the one and only Seattle Mariners. Seattle won 6-0.

Kauffmann Stadium, home of the Kansas City Royals

Fountains at Kauffmann Stadium in the city of fountains.

After the game, a great fireworks show and then sleep at the Southeast Kansas City Motel 6.

Dwight David Eisenhower (#34)

General and President Dwight David Eisenhower (1953-1961)

Every couple of years or so, my friend from college, Peter Steinberg and I decide to take a trip together. To say that these trips are far from the mainstream, is quite an understatement. Past trips have included a weeklong sea kayaking trip in Nova Scotia, exploring northern Michigan and the Upper Peninsula and this years expedition to Kansas, Missouri and Arkansas. The motivation? We wanted to see the Eisenhower, Truman and Clinton presidential libraries. Geeky? You betcha!

Late Saturday July 2nd, after pulling an OJ in the Houston Airport (those readers who think this is a reference to Kato and Nicole, ummm grow up!), I arrived at the Kansas City Airport and met up with Peter. Now for an informational nugget. The Kansas City Airport has 90 gates. Who would have guessed a number that high.

The first decision that Peter and I had to make was whether or not to rent an car that had XM radio. The young woman at the checkout counter was quite hip to our banter, but in the end we decided that to visit these states, we should be subject to local radio. XM Satellite radio would be the equivalent of eating at McDonalds the entire trip. So, no satellite radio for the two of us.

Peter and I drove west along I-70 for an hour and stayed the night at the NW Topeka Motel 6. As we drove, the number of signs pointing out things to see and do along I-70 in Kansas was surprisingly large. A small sample include, the territorial capital of Kansas (before it was a state), Leavenworth Military Prison, the Kansas Motor Speedway where Danica Patrick was to race the next day and the Brown vs. Board of Education historic site. All within an hour of Kansas City.

On Sunday the 3rd, Peter and I hauled ourselves another hour and a half west to Abilene, KS, the childhood home of Dwight Eisenhower. In fact, here I am in front of his childhood home.

E Chen looking droopy in front of DDE's home in Abilene, KS.

The Eisenhower Museum (I like how there is a grain silo in the distance behind it)

The first thing I learned is that every president since Herbert Hoover (excluding Richard Nixon) has a presidential library that houses his papers and also a museum, which documents his life. The libraries are run by the National Archives and Records Administration known affectionately as "NARA."

The tour of his childhood home was perfunctory and the library itself had little of interest. But his museum was what I came to see. What I learned is that Eisenhower was immensely popular, but really had few issues to deal with. The 50's, when he was president, was a time of great economic prosperity in the United States. To be way oversimplify in my summary of him, Eisenhower got to benefit from the work done before he was elected.

After a couple hours in the library, Peter and I drove back east to Kansas City. Thanks to Peter for driving through what was apparently a nasty downpour and lightening storm. I napped most of the drive.

We got into Kansas City just in time to get to eat at the famous Arthur Bryant's BBQ. The brisket sandwich and short ribs Peter and I had were everything they were said to be. We literally got in with 15 minutes to spare.

An outside view of Arthur Bryant's BBQ and 17th and Brooklyn, Kansas, City, MO

With our stomachs stuffed, Peter and I pushed on to stay the evening at the Motel 6 in Blue Springs, MO.