Saturday, January 12, 2013

A Day Walking Around Kolkata

The original plan was to leave Surul by train and head north to the famed hilltown of Darjeeling. My hope was to take the train to Siliguri and then from there hop on the famed Darjeeling train to take me to the town where I would spend a few days drinking tea and looking at the famed K2 and the rest of the Himalayas. Alas, by the time I got around to booking my tickets, they were sold out. I was #19 on the waiting list. Therefore, in a change of plans, I decided to spend the day in Kolkata before flying west to Delhi and heading down to Agra and the Taj Mahal.

Kolkata was the capital of British India. All the European countries had their claims to India, but the British were the most effective and over time took control of India by way the the British East India Company, based in Kolkata. However, in 1911, the British decided to move the capital to Delhi (thereby building New Delhi) and in many ways, Kolkata receded from its position as the most important city in India. It still boasts an incredible sense of history and a because the Bengalis are such proud people, it is a city that is proud of its intellectual heritage and its role as the the location for the start of the movement for India's independence from Britain.  The following is what I saw and experienced on my walk through Kolkata.


This pictures (credits go to Wikipedia) shows Dalhousie Square in the early 1900's. It was the seat of government of British India.  The building on the right is today's Writer's Building.

The Writer's Building today.  The lake is still there.

There has been general neglect of this "heart of Kolkata" and Dalhousie Square (now called BBD Bagh) was put on the 2006 World Monuments Watch list of culturally historic sights that are in serious disrepair.

It's not like this manhole cover is that old.  I saw even newer ones all over town.

I have to admit, that it looks like they are selling condoms.  Don't you think?

Coffee and a quiet lunch at the famous Kolkata Coffee Cooperative Shop near Kolkata University.

It's the liberal heart of town.


This scene was just down the block from the University.  In this way, I think China (or at least Beijing) has eliminated these kind of living situations.

Street food in Kolkata....something to the extent of Falafel.

The call for Independence...started here in Bengal/Kolkata.  I found this inscription just walking along the street.


That top quote...I heard ALL THE TIME in Bengal!


It was SO GREAT to just get fresh sliced fruit (served in a leaf) anytime on street.  The fruit was served with salt, which actually was tasty.

The architecture, taxis and buses of Kolkata.

Kolkata was the first city in India to have a Metro line.  It still has only ONE Metro line.

Why is there a burning rope hanging randomly here????

...brilliant!!




This man, at the Victoria Memorial sat down and started a conversation with me.  It took me about 10 minutes to realize he was going to ask me for money.  But, along the way, he offered to take my photos in front of the memorial.




I love the names of some of the streets in Kolkata.  Some are named after people who you expect, Indira Gandhi Sarani, Rabhindra Sarani or even Mother Teresa Sarani.  But then there are ones like Lenin Sarani or Ho Chi Minh Sarani that just made you chuckle.  Down this street, I got a shave on the street.  Alas, the man I asked to take a picture wasn't that adept with a camera and no photo of this event exists.  But I must say, getting a street shave was excellent!!

Thursday, January 10, 2013

Around Surul

The station nearest Surul is Bolpur but the area is known as Santiniketan.  It's famous for being the home of 1913 Nobel Laureate in Literature Rabindranath Tagore.

Tagore built a University in the area, named Visva-Bharati.  His home is open to the public (visited, took no pictures) and is a place of pilgrimage for many Indian.

The view across the "flat as a pancake" landscape of West Bengal.

So, 5 generations ago (or more) two brothers of the Sarkar family had a falling out and every since then, the town of Surul has been divided by which branch of the family one belongs to.  Here is the place of worship for one side.

During October there is a festival and sacrifice to the goddess with 10 arms (name I forget), so in its place, until the real, clay version arrives, is a straw replica.





The place of worship for the other side of the family. Turns out, S's parents were each from a different side.  Their marriage was the first between the different sides of the family.

Anywhere you find a surface, is fair game for drying cow dung.

A tour through the village and I came across many of these small temples......

....and some guys playing......

what appears to be a combination of tiddliwinks and pool.



It was rice harvesting season when I was there. 

In action




One afternoon, we took a visit to Asha's home and met her immediate family.

One of the servants daughters.

Apparently this says..."Girls don't get married, get an education"

The Santiniketan area is known for its ceramic work, therefore we all took a morning to meet with the artisann

Banyan Tree