Friday, February 15, 2013

Tombs of the Ming Dynasty Emperors


The Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) had 16 emperors, or which 13 are buried here just north of Beijing.  According to principles of Feng Shui, the location in this valley had mountains to the north  to deflect the cold winds.

Throughout the valley, against the base of the mountains, the locations of the tombs (which actually means a layout of buildings like the Forbidden city).

At this moment only three of the tombs are open.  The most spectacular is the "Ding Ling", or tomb of the emperor Wanli.  This is the approach to the tomb.


In 1956, Ding Ling excavation began. The writing on this stone led the archeologists to the entrance of the underground tomb.

The entrance (current day exit) to the excavated tomb.



When they dug down (about 4 stories deep) they had to dig break through a stone wall many feet thick.

Next, a set of solid marble doors, which were closed from the inside.  So the excavators threaded a wire through the gap between the doors and then used a hook to remove the items keeping the doors closed...and they swung open.

Today, here's the oh so modern way of keeping the doors open!


The underground tomb of Ding Ling has three main rooms along an axis.  In the second room, one finds the throne of the emperor.  Here in the rear vault, these red boxes held the valuables buried with the emperor.

The large coffins held the emperor himself.  Flanking him were his two wives.

The back exit (or the modern day entrance) into the underground tomb.

Chang Ling is one of the other major tombs.  Here's the large Hall of Eminent Favors

Chang Ling is the tomb for the Yongle Emperor, the Emperor that moved the capital to Beijing.


Why the picture of this random hill with trees?  Turns out underneath is the unexcavated tomb of Yongle.  The plan was after the excavation of Ding Ling, the more prominent Chang Ling was to be excavated. However, BOOM, the Cultural Revolution happened.  Then since 1989, the policy has been to leave the tombs unexcavated unless they are under possible harm.


An oven to burn silks, money and other items for sacrifice.



Thursday, February 14, 2013

Yi Poapoa and Marco Polo Bridge

I have relatives in Beijing!  On the right, the youngest sister of my grandmother (they look exactly alike!) and on the left, her husband.

Turns out I live about 50 minutes (one bus, no transfers) away from them, so I visited them at their apartment.  Yi Gong has a bad left leg (must run in the family) and is unable to lift it so he drags it along.  Therefore, he is housebound and not allowed out by himself.

YES!!!  I got a "hong bao"  When I saw it, I felt like I was 12 years old again!

We all talked for about 40 minutes (even a phone call to MY grandfather in Seattle).  Yi Poa showed me the Liu family history, which they just printed.  It comes in two volumes.  I saw my Mom's name, but I asked if I were there, and she said, "No, because you're a Chen!"

If in Beijing, you eat Beijing Duck!

After lunch, Yi Poa and I went to the nearby "Luguo Qiao," or known in the west as the Marco Polo Bridge.

The first bridge over the Yongding River, 15km southwest of central Beijing, was constructed in the 10th century. Marco Polo (yes that one) was impressed with the bridge when he visited in the 13th century and is known in the west as Marco Polo Bridge.

It is famed for all the lions that line the entire length of both sides of the bridge.

There are lions on lions, partially hiding other lions.  Each statue is different and the true number of lions has never been agreed upon.

The bridge was closed to automobile traffic in 1971 when newer bridges were complete, but they managed to incorporate the older stones into the renovation.


So, the Marco Polo Bridge would simply be a nice bridge with little historical value EXCEPT it was the site of the infamous Marco Polo Bridge Incident of July 1937.  At that time, the Japanese were on the other side of the Yongding River and this was their access point into Beijing.

The bridge led directly into the small walled town of Wanping.  Depending on who's history you believe, either the Japanese manufactured a reason to start an invasion or it was a series of miscommunications, but the Marco Polo Bridge incident was the commencement of the Japanese attack on Beijing in 1937.

The walled city on Wanping still bears the holes from the cannons.

This house, in the architecturally preserved city of Wanping, was the home of the "mayor" of Wanping.

Inside Wanping is the "Museum of the War of Chinese People's Resistance Against Japanese Agression"  Didn't go in, but I want to go back.  I'm betting it's fascinating propoganda!

Wednesday, February 13, 2013

Qufu -- Birthplace of Confucius

I hear of Confucius and Confucianism and wonder, "Is he a deity and is it a religion?" of "Is he a man and a doctrine?"  Well, in my limited understanding of Asian/Chinese history, and in talking with my colleague Mr. P-C, it's the latter.  Confucius (born 551BC) came up with a set of principles based on humanism, etiquette, filial piety, loyalty, knowledge and integrity, that ended up being the basis of the Chinese political system until the early 1900's.  To get into government service, one had to pass Confucian exams, essentially being able to memorize and analyze Confucian thought and ideas. I wondered whether or not it was the most effective way to find the best people. I thought maybe, but as P-C so succinctly put it, "it is like trying to staff a government that needs administrators and bureaucrats with only people who could successfully get a PHD in English."  Point taken!

That all being said, it's now Chinese New Year's week vacation and I decided to take a day trip to Qufu, where Confucius was born to see the large temple there.  I took some students along as well! 

"Qufu"

"Kong Zi"


Southern Entrance into The Confucius Temple at Qufu

Started 2500 years ago as a place for quiet contemplation, it has grown into a smaller version of The Forbidden City.  The grounds have temples and courtyards that are filled with "Stele Pavilions"



On the right, one of my students with whom I have a running gag.  We play the "bowing game" and the winner is the one who goes last.

She has incredible patience and ALWAYS wins.



A few kilometers north of the temple is the Kong Family Cemetery.  Here's the entrance.

The gravestone of Confucius himself!


Apparently, he's buried under the mound behind me.

Grave of the son of Confucius

Grave of the grandson of Confucius

The cemetery has over 100,000 graves.  All descendents of "Kong Zi"  The cemetery now is 3.6 square kilometers.
In fact, family members are still being buried here, this one, if I'm reading it right, was placed here in 2004.  In fact, descendants of the 78th generation are being buried here.

The Kong Family cemetery in Qufu is the cemetery that has the longest direct lineage to one person in the entire world.  That's pretty cool!

On the bus back to the train station, your typical announcements about the next stop and then, at the end, "The Diaoyu Islands belong to China!"