Anyang and Visiting Frank

The Chinese also measure years in relation to the Birth of Christ, the word "qian" means in front of.  Why did I include a picture of 1046 BC?  Because in Anyang, in northern Henan Province, is the site of the largest archeological excavation in all of China.  It is where the Shang Dynasty was located, specifically during the Yin period.

Why is it so important?  It was here in 1899 that "oracle bones" were discovered and are believed to be the first evidence of Chinese character writing. We are at the UNESCO World Heritage site called Yinxu.  That's my friend Frank on the right.

The big door, which looks like the Chinese Character “门”

A reconstruction of the pit in which the "oracle bones were found"

The "oracle bones" were actually the backs of tortoise shells, upon which divinations were written, thereby gaining the name "oracle bones."  However, the most interesting thing about these bones was the writing (seen here in red)

A reconstruction and enlargement of an "oracle bone"

Modern scholars have been able to determine which characters have come down to their modern equivalents.  This passage is about storms, the rains and their subsequent rainbows.

An example of how the Shang writing has evolved into the modern Chinese character "to go"

An entire wall of characters!

Mom's surname "高“ is listed but I didn't see “陈”

Throughout the Yinxu site, there are mounds where the excavations took place.  These glass bubbles cover the pits in which skeletons were found.

The Shang were living at the heart of the Bronze Age.  This is a crazy looking weapon.

And yes, this urn is taller than you and me!

Throughout the Anyang area, chariots were also excavated.  Some found with the skeletons of horses and people.

In 2000, local high school students found the remants of these chariot tracks.  Seriously, it blows my mind that these are some 2,000 years old.

The stele forest of reproduced "oracle bones"

So, at this point, I need to write down the other reason why I was here in Anyang.  I met Frank back in August during one of my first days here in Beijing when I went to the Beijing LGBT center for a movie screening.  He and I hit it off and we've been good friends every since. Unfortunately, he has moved away from Beijing and is doing a medical residency in a small (for China that means 500,000) town about 5 hours south of Beijing by train (or 2 hours by high speed train). 

Frank is doing the admirable thing of trying to live a full and as he calls is "integrated" gay life, meaning he wants to be out to his family, co-workers and have gay friends. He says that he knows so many men here in China who are gay but simply aren't willing to be out and simply look for sex outside their "straight" relationships.  Frank, to his credit, is unwilling to life in this "hidden" way.  But it is incredibly hard to be out when the society is still so far behind in its thinking and acceptance of gays. He is out to his parents, who are angry at him.  I'm not sure if they are angry at his being gay or at the fact that he is coming out.  (Remember, I am having all these conversations IN CHINESE.)  He is not out to any co-workers but suspects that there are definitely a few lesbians and a couple guys he suspects are gay since they are in their late 30's and don't date girls.  But it simply is too frightening for him to approach these people/topics in the workplace.  As I listened to him, I realized that so much of his loneliness stems not from being void of gay friends, but he is lacking in friends in his new town.  Part of it stems from his work schedule, 8AM to 11PM five days a week. There is simply no time for him to have a social life.  Therefore, he is trying to create social life at work.  I told him that the workplace is a workplace, and not the place to make friends.  I reminded him that he made his friends in Beijing by going out and doing things.  But he says that in his town there aren't any gay friendly or organized activities. I said that at this point, just go and make friends. Friends first. 

What did make him feel better is that I told him that his frustrations of living in a smaller, non Beijing town is much like gays feel in smaller cities in the United States.  That his issue and challenges are ones of geography.  What I also realized is HOW far the attitudes towards and the acceptance of gays is in the United States. The fact that companies are opening accepting of gays blows Frank's mind.  The fact that we recently abandoned the "don't ask don't tell" policy in the military.  That there is even a debate about gay marriage and that there are going to be court rulings coming up.  We gays in the United States must continue to press for full equality and continue to talk openly about who we are and be seen.  But we also must remember how far we have come.  I am also very proud of my friend Frank, who is essentially doing it alone in the outer reaches of Northeast Henan province China.  He is a brave soul and I'm not sure I could be doing what he is trying to do.

The last picture here is completely on a different topic.  In the news there is a great deal of talk about the Chinese Real Estate Bubble.  Well, in the tier 1 cities (Beijing, Shanghai, Shenzhen, etc) housing prices are through the roof.  But then there are tier 3 cities, like Anyang.  In my one day there, I saw rows and rows of these newly built towers of apartments.  The finished ones didn't appear to be fully occupied and then these, out in the middle of a field somewhere, unbuilt.  Real estate bubble?