Caligula's Boats

Sometimes you just go along with something and you get something cool. This past weekend was a family trip to the Castelli Romani area, just southeast of Rome. I wasn't sure what I was getting myself into, but sometimes cool stuff just comes ones way.

From the top of Rocca di Papa, this is Lake Nemi, in the crater of an old volcano. We had a hike down to it and ended in the town of Nemi.

The trail was on a pre-Roman empire sacred path. This is something fun!

So why is Lake Nemi so fascinating historically? Back in the 1st century AD, the Roman Emperor Caligula built two ENORMOUS boats that floated on this lake. One was a pleasure palace and the other a floating temple. Due to his "damnae memoriae" (that itself was controversial) everything associated with him was destroyed, or in this case sunk. The boats sat at the bottom of the lake for 1800 years.

In the late 1920's, Mussolini, in an attempt to associate himself with the grandeur of Rome had the ships removed from the water BY DRAINING THE LAKE!! The boats, or the structural remnants of them were in decent shape and historians were able to get a sense of the purpose and engineering. Then a museum was built to house the ships, right here on the shores of Lake Nemi.

Each boat filled this Facist era (style) this size. There are two halls, one for each boat. However, in 1944, either retreating Germans set fire to the boats or squatters set an unfortunate fire and the boats, as well as much of the building was destroyed. The boats we see here are 1/5 the size of the ones that were lost.

Myself and Gabi C. standing in front of what is called Boat 2. The black part is the boat itself and then you can see the brown cross planks. It was upon this platform the temple stood. How cool is that?

Istanbul

This weekend, a three day weekend, and it was off to Istanbul.

Landed at the alternative airport, got dropped off at Taksim Square in the new, modern part of town, and then walked into the old town. This is the view as you cross the Galata Bridge.

The Hagia Sophia is built right on the highest point on the spit of land that juts into the Bosphorus. Built in the time of Justinian, at the height of the Byzantine Empire, it has been a Christian Basilica, an Orthodox church, a mosque and now is a museum.

Mosques have minarets. I learned that they were used for the call to prayer. Today, it's done through speakers and microphones. The buttresses were added on later to help support the building.

The Hagia Sophia is meant to be absolutely stunning, and the size and grandeur does take your breath away.

I find that inside is a "puzzle" as there are half domes within half domes.

A later addition to the interior are these large "medallions" attached in the corners with the names of Islamic religious leaders. The Hagia Sophia has been a multi-purpose building.

Because in the Muslim religion, there are not to be representations of people, the original mosaics have been plastered over. However, some of them were removed during the "iconoclastic period" when religious leaders felt that portraying the divine in picture form made them "idols/icons."

Some survived.

This one is from a later time.

I notice that the quality of details of the face were better. Improvement in artistic technique. I have to admit, that I actually am starting to like Byzantine art.

Ok, I admit that I am a bit of a photo geek and take my share of photos. But some people take it to far. I have to take a picture of this man, who is taking a photo of a photo exhibit. Really?

Right across the street from the Hagia Sophia is the cistern that was built in the 6th century AD during Justinian's reign. 336 columns in the area of two football fields to hold 27 million gallons of water. AWESOME.

In 1741, the sultan built the Cagalougu Hamam as a gift to the city.

This is a picture from their website, but I had to show it. Sauna room first, then I laid on this heated slab of marble in the middle of the room and got worked over and then scrubbed down (HARD). My guy, Myron, was peeling these balls of black dead skin. I was a bit embarassed. Then an awesome soap bath.

The Sultanahmet (AKA The Blue Mosque) sits next to the Hagia Sophia. They don't actually face each other, but are side by side. In both, they were designed to you enter facing east.

The courtyard to the Sultanahmet with the main entrance for those entering for prayer.

Ablution, the ritual cleaning of feet.

We visitors (as well as those coming for prayer) are required to take off our shoes. So much of Islamic life is lived with bare feet. I couldn't do it.

When I travel, I don't go to the fancy restaurants, but I like eating food of the street. I love the fish sandwiches.

So, I've always wondered why kebabs are always "doner". Doner means "spin." And I've never seen the kebab before it was cooked before. Here it is. Who knew?

The grand sights of Istanbul are in the Sultanahmet district, across the Golden Horn is the "new district". Historically, this is where foreigners lived and it's where all the embassies are located, but most of them have moved to Ankara as that is now the capital.

The Galata Tower is built on the highest point of the new district. It was built by the Genoese during the period when they were given ownership of land and waterfront on the other side of the Golden Horn.

The Bosphorus is a busy waterway. I took a cruise up the Bosphorus and this tanker followed right behind us.

There are two bridges that cross the Bosphorus. Bridges that connect Europe and Asia.

At the north end of the Bosphorus, at the opening to the Black Sea!

Looking south down the Bosphorus towards Istanbul.

Making Sausage

The adage is that you "don't want to see the sausage getting made!" Well, I've been such a fan of Gigi's sausage this past year that I asked him to help him make it. As is everything once you see how it gets done, isn't really that complicated.

You take your pork, cut it up into chunks, then mix it with salt, pepper and some sugar. Put it into the machine that grinds it up.

After it's ground up, you knead it to get it soft and put in some pepper flakes. Then you put it into what I'm calling the "sausage shooter." The darker red meat in the corner is sausage made from liver, tongue and heart.

Next, the casing is put on to the end of the "sausage shooter." It really is the equivalent of putting on a condom.

Then, while Gigi turns the handle, I was on quality control to make sure the sausage was of uniform width.

Last step, tie up the sausage into the right size and you've got homemade sausage!

Dad's New Toy (aka The Power of Carlos P.)

A few weeks ago, I got an email from my Dad and at the bottom of the email it read "sent from my IPAD." What???? And then, the next email was a description of the new double wireless router system (with schematic diagram). I just got SMOKED in the technology world by my Dad.

This all happened AFTER Carlos P. and his film crew spent a few days at the house. Carlos sold Dad on it and now Dad has scanned 40+ years of photos and has the filed on his iPad in folders. He showed it to me on SKYPE. Wow, never did I ever think I would type/say those words from a man who still has an AOL email account!

One Month Without Shaving

This is the season of my experiment with facial hair. After one month, without shaving (I had to shave around the mouth as that was driving me nuts), here's what we have. Now, it's time to sculpt and try different styles. Pictures to come!

Here I am with a county commissioner (and host dad) on the left and the governor of the province of Viterbo on the right. The politicos came by on Monday to welcome the students.

Capri

After orientation, on the coast south of Rome, I headed south to Naples, again, to get on a boat to spend a day on the famous island of Capri. At this point, I would post a picture of the island as the boat approached it, but I was hanging off the back of the hydrofoil puking my GUTS out. It was a one hour ride, but it felt like it took forever. I would venture that 50% of the passengers were vomiting. These rough seas meant that the famed "Grotto Azzurra" was closed. Bummer. But, I had great weather regardless and enjoyed myself. I mean, how can you not, in a place as beautiful as Capri.

The Isle of Capri has the eastern end (Capri town) down low near the sea and the western end, high on a bluff (Anacapri). Right on the edge of that bluff is Villa San Michele which was the home of Swedish doctor Axel Munthe. This is the chapel and the sphinx which is perched right on the edge.

Here's the view of Capri town from the villa.

The Villa San Michele has beautiful gardens and you find statues everywhere.

Munthe was a jack of all trades, doctor, author, animal lover and architect to name just a few talents. He directed the construction of a number of buildings in Anacapri, this Casa Caprile being one of them. Why did I care? The Casa Caprile is NOW a hotel and it's where I stayed. Totally coincidence.

The famous Chiesa San Michele in Anacapri is known for its floor which depicts the expulsion of Adam and Even from Eden.

It's amazing because its actually a tile mosaic. Here's Adam's head.

I always have to take a picture of the elephant!

From Anacapri you can take a chairlift to the top of Monte Solaro, the highest point on the mountain.

Recognize that building? It's the Casa Caprile from the chairlift.

From the top of Monte Salaro, the view west. Capri town below, on the right, the Faraglioni Rocks and in the distance, the Amalfi coast!

From the top of Monte Solaro, I hiked down to Anacapri and from there I descended to Capri (and the boat) via the Phoencian stairs. These stairs (just over 1,000) were the only way to get from Capri up to Anacapri until the road was built in the late 1800's.

On my way down, I struck up a conversation with this very nice Swedish woman (making a pilgrimage to Villa San Michele as it's something the Swede's do) and turns out she's the mother of former #10 in the world tennis player Jonas Svennson. You never know who you run into.....

Getting off the island was quite a decision as well. Wanting to minimize the time on a boat, I chose to take a boat to Sorrento (the closest point on the mainland) and take the train from Sorrento to Naples. It added an hour to my journey, but I saved myself from the threat of another "incident." I would make that choice every time.